You should remove your link to the alleged failure mode of Scotts locked Bowline because it is false. It might even be worth highlighting that this process is still useful and should always be kept up, even when you don’t know your partner’s knot.Thanks again, Mark, not least of which for all the effort that went into the original document and the subsequent updates.In general, when people refer to a “bowline”, they refer to the “Simple Bowline” as seen in the image above. If you’re committed to forming that same familiarity with a secure bowline variant, then there is no good reason you shouldn’t.The way around this problem is to tie a more secure and stable variant. You mentioned this in passing towards the end, but I’ve not heard of it being studied in detail – how vulnerable are the different tie-in knots to misidentification/incorrect tying? Genuinely scary.Great article Ryan, really enjoyed the read! All offer ease of untying after loading, and therefore they present themselves as viable alternatives to the Figure 8.I think the issue is that the bowline variants that people generally use are actually a bit shit for reasons stated in the article. Thanks for the idea Thanks again for your input, it’s certainly welcome! It’s too fiddly and for me I don’t trust myself to get it right. ice climbing, mountaineering, adventure trad), you probably don’t need to make the change. The research is all here, but what climbers choose to do with it is entirely up to them. I'm happy with this in a sport context with frequent tieing and untieing.I confess I have been using Yosemite Bowline knot as my harness tying point for well over a decade for indoor or summer single-pitch climbing. )Now, I don't think Yosemite Bowline is trustable enough for me.This failure mode can be induced in both orientations of the tail.However, I do not use it during multi-pitch climbing or in winter, because I did notice its tendency to come loose over an extensive period of time, probably after the knot has been rubbed by something surrounding without me noticing. Perhaps it would be good to write more about the bowline variants climbers actually use, as I haven’t seen those above in the wild. The EBSB Bowline; and Harry Butlers Yosemite Bowline variant; and Scott's locked Bowline; and Lee's link Bowline. The major disadvantages are, He’s done plenty of trad climbing and El Cap climbing, you can’t dismiss him as a single pitch sport climber.The first is when the tail works its way through the knot, either by cyclical loading, ring loading or slack shaking, all of which occur in varying amounts during climbing. Perhaps one disadvantage, is you have a second chance to mis-thread your harness tie-in loops!Your question is a very good one. One HELLuva lot of bowline confusion would be spared were the proper FRONT side of the knot shown instead of --as has been done since the dark ages-- the back side :: show the side where the main line crosses itself in making that key/bowline-defining loop!! (Google images of "sheet bend", which is bowline-like : that is usually presented from the helpful side; but bowline, almost never. Reliable climbing data is thin on the ground, and my guess (without actually knowing 100%) is that the reliable data on that particular chestnut will probably not exist. You are publishing your article to the world via the internet and as such, you need to make sure that the information you convey is accurate (which it is not). My one feeling, besides the precision required to tie it, is that if anything it’s too secure, in that it does seem to suffer more from binding than other bowlines.
That is, they are cognizant of the fact that their knowledge and skills are entirely correct at all times.I learned to tie a single bowline sailing as a kid by tying a half hitch, and then inverting it. If you know a single bowline, you can inspect it. The disadvantage to these knots is that they are often harder to tie and harder to inspect. For me it would be my current choice for a bowline tie-in. What is clear, however, is that you should check yourself (and your buddy) before you wreck yourself.Wouldn’t tie-in with any of those variants… Unlike the Figure 8, they can be tied in a single-stage process, meaning that it isn’t necessary to form the knot before feeding through the harness. Bowline variants which are suitable for climbing solve both problems by some combination of the following methods:In the recreational climbing community – knowledge and skills are typically passed on by word-of-mouth of by trial and error learning at the crag. Scotts locked Bowline is inherently secure … Yosemite Bowline knot has served me well so far.The Bowline knot [2018-06016: referring to Asheley's #1 hereafter, unless otherwise mentioned] used to be the most popular knot for climbers for a tying-in point to a harness. Given that most climbers are more familiar with the Figure 8 as a tie-in knot, most belay partners will generally have no problem identifying faults at a glance.
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